Day 1 Part 1: Kathmandu to Lukla – Everest Base Camp + Video

Everest Base Camp (5,600m)

Khumbu Glacier, Nepal
April – May 2016

Kathmandu to Lukla

In April 2016, I spent the longest (and one of the coldest) trekking trip in my entire life to reach Everest Base Camp. I was quite under-prepared but it was an extremely moving and eye-opening experience. The whole journey took around 8 days to reach the base camp, and another 5 just to get back to Lukla. This expedition was organized by BlueForest Adventure, a company run by 2 full-time outdoor enthusiasts from Malaysia.

All in all, I was truly blessed to be not so badly affected by AMS which I’ve seen first hand how it could adversely affect others. With a great guide (Nabin), awesome trekking partner (Kah Wane) and our good friend Jyatha as our resourceful porter, all of this was made much easier. Thanks to everyone.

The things to pack are basically quite similar to any multi-day hiking trips. Below would just be a list of recommended items that I’d personally bring, but feel free to change as you see fit.

Checklist - General
The only difference that we need to seriously consider is clothing (for sub-zero temperatures), preferably hiking boots instead of hiking shoes, really good pair of double layered socks to prevent blisters + any thick sleeping socks, a sleeping bag with a very low temperature rating, a pair of sunglasses with UV protection and a hiking scarf to cover your nose and mouth as things will get pretty dusty at certain points. A beanie or a cap is also essential.

Bring two bags, one for yourself to carry throughout the journey, and the other one for the porter to bring along to your next destination.

Medical
Medically speaking, on top of your normal set of medicines, do bring probiotics, charcoal pills, water purification tablets, hand sanitizer and multivitamins. Better safe than sorry.
Toiletries
Toiletries include deodorant and wet wipes and tissue paper (on top of the obvious ones). Unless you’re willing to pay for heated water, I doubt you’ll be showering for the whole duration of the trip. You can wipe yourself and reapply the deodorant from time to time. Not forgetting, sunscreen with a minimum rating of 50 SPF.
Insurance
A very important one indeed. Get it at World Nomads.
Lastly but not least, the most useful device which I’ve acquired before this trip was a solar charging panel. Again, unless you’re OK paying to get your devices charged, this would be your constant and pretty much “unlimited” source of energy. The rest of the setup is totally up to you on how much or how little you would want to bring.

That out of the way, let’s get back to the main story.

Our flight to Kathmandu was scheduled to arrive around eight in the evening to allow us some time to make last minute purchases around Thamel district. Unfortunately it was delayed close to midnight. We checked in immediately and took a tour nearby to see if any of the shops were still open. Some were, but we only managed to clear off some of our shopping checklist. Left with no other choice, we headed back to our hotel and started to re-pack for our domestic flight to Lukla tomorrow morning.

Bukit Tabur East
First official breakfast in Kathmandu, Nepal.
Photo by John Teh

Woke up early in the morning, and had our breakfast while waiting for our friendly guide Nabin to arrive. Nabin was a guide to Kah Wane on numerous occasions on his previous hikes in Nepal, so it was quite nice to see a long time acquaintance leading our journey. Leaving the hotel behind, we headed to Kathmandu domestic airport for Lukla.

Bukit Tabur East
At Kathmandu domestic airport.
Photo by John Teh

Lukla airport, also known as Tenzing-Hillary Airport is a domestic airport and altiport in the town of Lukla, in Khumbu Pasanglhamu, Solukhumbu District, Nepal. It gained worldwide fame as it was rated the most dangerous airport in the world for more than 20 years. High winds, cloud cover, and changing visibility often mean flights can be delayed or the airport closed.

The airport was built in 1964 under the supervision of Sir Edmund Hillary. In January 2008, the airport was renamed in honor of Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary, the first people confirmed to have reached the summit of Mount Everest.

You may find a short clip of the plan landing at Lukla airport at the bottom of this post. I’ve recorded quote a bit of footage on planes landing and taking off from this airport and will be compiling all of them into a single video at the end of this series. Stay tuned!

Kathmandu to Lukla

On the way to the plane and lift off!

Photo by John Teh

The airport’s paved asphalt runway is accessible only to helicopters and small, fixed-wing, short-takeoff-and-landing aircraft such as the De Havilland Canada DHC-6 Twin Otter, Dornier Do 228, L-410 Turbolet and Pilatus PC-6 Turbo Porter. The runway is 527 m (1,729 ft) × 30 m (98 ft) with an 11.7% gradient. The airport’s elevation is 9,334 ft (2,845 m).
– Wikipedia

The flight took around 45 minutes to an hour to reach Lukla airport. No words could describe the view out of the window throughout the journey. From cities to mountains covering the horizons, it seems people are settling down, building their homes even at the most remote area of the country.

Kathmandu to Lukla
In the plane, enjoying the view.
Photos by John Teh

Small planes such as these allow every single one onboard to have a window seat, giving everyone the luxury to view what passes through, the various terrains and basically different living conditions at different areas of the country. The plane that we boarded had a total of 14 passengers if I calculated correctly based on the photo I took. Upon landing, we were greeted by a channel of buildings both ways. The left would be living quarters, gift shops, hostels and all the general facilities you may find. On the right would be the basic airport facilities, accepting new arrivals and the typical check-ins and check-outs.

Kathmandu to Lukla
The famous Lukla airport!
Photo by John Teh
On the ground and having a cup of tea.
Photos by John Teh

We collected our bags, went through security checks and headed straight to one of the establishments for further processing. While that was being taken care of, we had a little bit of time exploring the small city around the airport, captured a couple of videos of incoming planes and the subsequent take-offs. The three of us eventually regrouped within a fine establishment which I couldn’t remember to meet up with Jyatha, the gentleman that’d be shouldering our secondary bags all the way up to Gorak Shep, the final destination before Everest Base Camp. He took off ahead of us, leaving the three of us with our hot morning tea.

Bukit Tabur East
Second official breakfast at Lukla before starting our journey to Phakding.
Photo by John Teh

I finished my tea quickly to get some shots of the photos and decorations on the wall. Everest great such as Sir Edmund Hillary and other Sherpas were proudly displayed on the wall. At this very point, reality started to kick in, registering the fact that I was indeed on a journey to the base of the tallest mountain in the world.

If you prefer a more visual-based story telling, feel free to watch the video below that includes videos I’ve recorded during this part. I’ve mixed together still photos and videos to make up the whole video. In total, there’ll be 22 posts and videos to cover the entire journey.

Day 1 Part 1 – Kathmandu to Lukla.
Everest Base Camp – Visit my Youtube Channel for more videos.

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