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Day 13: Kathmandu – Swayambhunath Buddhist Temple

Everest Base Camp (5,600m)

Khumbu Glacier, Nepal
April – May 2016

Swayambhunath Buddhist Temple

Visiting Swayambhunath Buddhist Temple, also known as the Monkey Temple, in Kathmandu after the devastating earthquake in 2015 was a powerful and emotional experience. The temple, which is one of the oldest and most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites in Nepal, sustained significant damage during the quake, but has since been partially restored.

Upon entering the temple complex, one is greeted by the striking main stupa, a large white dome-shaped structure that is adorned with the all-seeing eyes of the Lord Buddha. The stupa is surrounded by smaller shrines, statues, and prayer wheels, all of which were heavily damaged during the earthquake. Despite this, the site still exudes a sense of spiritual significance and peace.

Visiting Swayambhunath Buddhist Temple after returning from a trek to Everest Base Camp is an even more profound experience. The contrast between the serene and peaceful atmosphere of the temple and the rugged and harsh environment of the Himalayas is striking. The temple serves as a reminder of the fragility of human existence and the importance of finding inner peace and contentment.
Staircase leading to the main stupa.
Photos by John Teh
As you make your way up the 365 steps leading to the main stupa, the hustle and bustle of the city below fades away, and you are enveloped by a sense of calm and serenity. The sound of the prayer wheels spinning and the murmurs of the prayers being recited by the devotees add to the peaceful atmosphere.

Climbing to the top of the main stupa offers a panoramic view of Kathmandu and the surrounding valley. The view is breathtaking, with the city spread out below and the Himalayas in the distance. However, it is also a reminder of the destruction caused by the earthquake, with many buildings in the city still in ruins.

Amazing view of Kathmandu from the temple.
Photos by John Teh
When walking around the main stupa, one passes five shrines symbolizing the mandala of the Five Buddha families, represented by Akshobhya, Ratnasambhava, Amitabha, and Amoghasiddhi; the 5th Buddha Vairocana is placed next to the shrine of Akshobya.

One of the most notable structures within the complex is the Harati Temple, also known as the Temple of the Living Goddess. This temple is dedicated to a deity known as Harati, who is believed to protect children and pregnant women. The temple is home to a statue of Harati, which is said to be over 300 years old. The statue is adorned with gold and silver and is surrounded by offerings of flowers and incense.

Various structures and temples within the complex.
Photos by John Teh
One of the most striking things about visiting Swayambhunath Buddhist Temple after the earthquake is the sense of resilience and determination that the local community has shown in the face of such a devastating disaster. Despite the extensive damage that the temple sustained, the local community has come together to restore and rebuild the temple.

As you walk around the complex, you can see the evidence of this restoration work everywhere. Workers can be seen carefully repairing and rebuilding structures, while others are working to clean and restore statues and shrines. The local community has come together to raise funds, and many have donated their time and expertise to help with the restoration effort.

It is also worth noting that the Swayambhunath Temple is not just a religious site, but also an important cultural and historical landmark. The temple is believed to have been built in the 5th century AD and has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries. It has been a site of great significance for the local community, and its restoration is not just about preserving a religious site, but also preserving an important piece of the local culture and history.

Surrounding structures around the main stupa under repairs.
Photos by John Teh
Another important structure within the complex is the Vajrayogini Temple, which is believed to have been built in the 14th century. This temple is dedicated to a female deity known as Vajrayogini, who is considered to be an embodiment of spiritual power and wisdom. The temple is known for its intricate carvings and sculptures, which are said to depict various aspects of Vajrayogini’s teachings.
Harati Devi’s temple and smaller stupas and pagodas in the foreground.
Photos by John Teh
The Swayambhunath temple is also known for its many prayer wheels. These are large cylindrical wheels that are inscribed with the mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum”, which is said to bring blessings and peace to those who recite it. Visitors to the temple are encouraged to spin these prayer wheels as they walk around the complex, as it is believed to accumulate spiritual merit.
Other structures and the surrounding areas.
Photos by John Teh
One of the most striking features of the temple is the many monkeys that call it home. They are considered sacred by the local people and are treated with respect. They are quite friendly, but visitors should be careful not to carry food or leave belongings unattended as they can be quite mischievous.
Namche Bazaar to Syangboche
Sunset view.
Photo by John Teh
At certain spots, visitors and crowds gather to take in the view.
Photos by John Teh
Visiting Swayambhunath Buddhist Temple after the earthquake was a powerful and emotional experience. The temple, despite the damage sustained during the earthquake, still exudes a sense of spiritual significance and peace. The various structures, statues, and shrines within the complex offer a glimpse into the rich culture and history of Nepal, and the panoramic view from the top of the main stupa provides a stunning perspective on the city of Kathmandu and the surrounding valley.

Next Chapter

> Day 14: Kathmandu City Adventure

Before you move on to the next chapter, don’t forget to watch the video below.
Day 13: Swayambhunath Buddhist Temple (Kathmandu)

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This post / video is a part of a 21-part series, covering everything from:-
  1. Day 1 (Kathmandu to Lukla)
  2. Day 1 (Lukla to Phakding)
  3. Day 2 (Phakding to Namche Bazaar)
  4. Day 2 (Namche Bazaar)
  5. Day 3 (Syangboche Acclimatization)
  6. Day 3 (Back to Namche Bazaar, dropping by at Sagarmatha National Park)
  7. Day 4 (Namche Bazaar to Tengboche)
  8. Day 5 (Tengboche - Dinboche)
  9. Day 6 (Dingboche & Nangkartshang - Acclimatization)
  10. Day 6 (Getting down from Nangkartshang & Snow)
  11. Day 7 (Dingboche to Lobuche)
  12. Day 7 (A Heart-Wrenching Stop at Thukla Pass and Scott Fischer’s Memorial)
  13. Day 8 (Lobuche to Gorak Shep)
  14. Day 8 (Kalla Phatthar Acclimatization)
  15. Day 9 (Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp)
  16. Day 9, 10 & 11 (Gorak Shep to Pheriche, Namche Bazaar and Phakding)
  17. Day 12 (Phakding to Lukla)
  18. Day 12 (Flying back to Kathmandu from Lukla Airport)
  19. Day 13 (Kathmandu - Swayambhunath Buddhist Temple)
  20. Day 14 (Kathmandu City Adventure)
  21. Journey to the Roof of the World: A Trekker's Final Post and Summary of the Epic Everest Base Camp Trek

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